ICE CONDITIONS REPORT FOR OURAY - TELLURIDE - SILVERTON

Much to the chagrin of many locals I’m sure, I will be posting conditions here for the popular ice climbing venues in the San Juans throughout the 20/21 season. Front Strangers Welcome! If you have recent info or photos, please send them my way. I’ll list routes by town, then general sub area, whether I think it’s “in” or not, and any observations or beta.

January 4, 2021. Overall conditions are pretty good in the San Juans for ice climbing right now. Many standards are in, but some of the more ephemeral things are not.

OURAY
ICE PARK: OPEN. Everything but the fingers are open.

SKYLIGHT: All main flows are formed but on the leaner side of normal condition.
Skylight: YES. 1st pitch is mixed. 2nd a bit chandeliered.
Choppo’s: Yes.
Killer Pillar: NO (at least not protectable on lead) Some ice.
Slip Slidin’: YES. Dead tree anchor at top has been removed. Either take it all the way into the forest and rap the gully to climber’s left, or stop at the last ice headwall and thread. You can go to the chains on top of Shattered Dreams, but we careful rapping the hanging dagger below.
Slippery When Wet: YES.
Chockstone Chimney: YES.

DARKSIDE: Some ice on top of the Ribbon; but not ready to go IMO. Left Racing Stripe has been climbed on mainly snice with few good crews for pro. BE VERY WARY OF AVI HAZARD ON THIS SIDE. YOU MAY BE SAFE ONCE ON A CHOSS ROUTE, BUT NOT GETTING TO IT OR OFF IT!
Ribbon: No. Though you can reportedly climb the mixed pitch Vulgar (M6R) to the last pitch of ice, which is not in good shape.
GNI: Always in, but challenging when snow plastered.
BBB: No
Talisman: No

Dexter Creek Slabs: YES.
Horsetail: YES.
Gravity’s Rainbow Area: No
Bear Creek Area: Bear Creek Falls has been getting climbed. Left side looks pretty good. Not sure how long it will last with some warmer temps.

SILVERTON
South Mineral Creek: Due to Ice Lakes Fire, road is closed at Goldenhorn. USFS is allowing access to climbs on the south side of the creek, but you cannot access via the road beyond the gate. You must immediately cross the river at Goldenhorn and proceed up canyon on the south side of the river approximately 2 miles. There is a track now, but its not the straightest line. There have been reports of folks walking the road, but the USFS says they will be patrolling this so don’t say I didn’t warn you. The pros have been doing the legit approach. AS OF 12/24 THE ROAD IS IMPASSABLE WITHOUT MONSTER TRUCK OR SNO-MO FRO HWY 550.

DNF: Middle pitches are in, but leaner than normal. Approach pitches are snow on rock with occasional ice blob.
Snotty: Unknown, has some ice in it.
Snowblind: In, but heavily chandeliered on all steep pitches. Approach pitches were rock slabs and deepish snow.
Campground Couloirs: Yes, but thinner than normal, climbing ok
Sundance: CLOSED. THIS CLIMB IS WITHIN THE ICE FIRE CLOSURE AREA. It has been getting climbed, reportedly very wet on the lower half. Please consider not climbing this route as it may put in affect the access to the open climbs if the closure is dis-regarded.

Eureka:

WHH: Yes. First pitch is climbable on the left, center, and right side. 2nd pitch pool has filled in some, but be careful, plenty of folks have punched through to the wter below. Both top pitches are in. Be wary of the left flow after sun hits the top of it, it is notorious for rockfall as it loosens up each day.

STH: YES. Be aware of avalanche conditions.

HTH: Yes. Beware of massive avalanche hazard. This is IMO one of the most threatened routes in the area.

1st Gully: Yes. Beware serious Avi conditions and deep snow on route.

2nd Gully: Yes. Beware serious Avi conditions and deep snow on route

Goldrush: Possible? Can come in and out every couple days.

Three Stooges/Fat City: Yes. Fat City upper 2 pitches in great shape. Steep and featured ice on the pillar.

TBF: Yes.

TELLURIDE ICE CLIMBS

Bridalveil: YES.
Cornet: Yes, as of now has been getting climbed. Standard pine come to tube finish. Be careful as the top tube may begin to hollow out in warmer temps and sunshine.
Ames Ice Hose: No/Yes?, your call. Has been climbed a couple times now. Be ready for insecure climbing, poor gear, and long runouts between pieces. Acceptable risk to reward equation is a personal decision. I won’t be doing it in these conditions…
Cracked: Unknown
Silverpick: No, still a hanging dagger
Bilk Creek: YES. 3 pitches of hollow funky WI3+. Road is most likely not passable now to the TH.
Deep Creek: YES. Some routes in the middle zone are in and been getting climbed. Be aware of massive avalanche hazard in this zone.
Down Valley: You can go for creek-bed ramble on Diamond Hill gullies just up stream from Silverpick road, multiple vertical steps followed by short slogs. About 400’ total gain.

Use these reports at your own peril. Ice changes everyday. Not responsible if this is not accurate. Assess for yourself. Climb within your ability. Don’t fall.